Street Art Near Our Apartment

Our neighborhood

[18th Female Posting]  Big hiatus between last posting and this... we seem to be running out of energy on all fronts—slowing down, sleeping late, taking more ibuprofen, and splitting the odd Vicodin to ignore our bodily pains. BUT we are having a great time, nonetheless, and have now been in Florence for four nights.

Rustic Nest

View from Nest

We lucked out in the apartment I rented, on the "other" side of the river from the main sights, just off the Ponte Vecchio. It's a lot nicer over here, and though still touristed, much less so. Our apartment is a perfect, cozy little nest with everything we need, including (finally) decent wifi. And it's cheap, at 60 euros a night! So we've changed plans, canceled our hotel in Siena and extended here for two more nights. Will take an all-day train trip to Siena instead. Hate to give up the extra time there, but we'll be back... si Dios quiere, as we say down south.

Campanile View

Palazzo Vecchio

Ponte Vecchio

Florence is predictably beautiful, though some of the "biggies" have been disappointing. Paul and I toured the Uffizi separately but both agreed that it was a letdown: really poor signage, no museum map that we could find, pieces moved around or lent out or just missing with little to no explanation, brutally unfriendly rules about retracing one's steps or exiting easily—a Nazi version of Ikea. Same attitude as the "guards" at the Louvre, not to mention TSA agents. The Botticellis were mobbed, natch, with idiots insisting on having their photo taken in front of them. It's hot and stuffy in there, yet you're forbidden to enter with bottled water! 

The Duomo, too, while boasting a stunning exterior, doesn't compare inside with smaller and less famous cathedrals.  Shades of the Hagia Sofia and Blue Mosque...

Il Duomo, Campanile

Campanile (A Giotto Design from 1400s)

Duomo Façade (completed in the 1870's—a "rush job" to celebrate Italy's Independence)

But I'm so glad we forced ourselves to hike up to see the Michaelangelos in the Accademia; I had feared the crowds and was ready to settle for the piazza reproduction of the David. What a difference the original makes! And very few gawkers late in the day. We've also seen some of my favorites in smaller venues: Masaccios, Giottos, Fra Angelicos, Lippis, Uccellos...

Himself, in the flesh

Fake David Lawn Ornament

Giotto's Excruciating Crucifixion, in Santa Maria Novello

Masaccio's Ground-breaking 3-D Trinity, Santa Maria Novello

Masaccio: M/M Spratt in Florence (Brancacci Chapel)

I am a failure as a shopper. Yesterday I was in an open-air market and asked the price of a leather jacket. The guy said, "First try it on." I said no, I just wanted a price. He said, "Lady, you want a price, go to a shop. This is how we do it in the market!" I fled in shame... The leather goods are so fine here, and I wanted to buy a simple gold chain, but will probably leave empty-handed.

The food continues to soothe—though not astound, as it did in Bologna. Last night we had more porcinis (!!! in season!!!), and then I ordered boar in an osteria that specialized in it. Really not remarkable at all; I was hoping for spit-roasted and succulent, but got a slight variation on pot roast for about $22. But it was a nice, friendly place with cute little boar icons everywhere. ;-)

How lucky are we, anyway? It rains a bit here but is still warm; we're getting along well despite the stresses of travel, and we haven't gained TOO much weight. Not only that, but knowing Spanish makes everything so much easier here. I'm having lots of fun faking Italian, and want to study it properly now.

Ciao, Bambini!